So home now, reviewing everything that happened over these past 11 days. All quite extraordinary and making memories to last a lifetime. Met some wonderful people on the cruise (one couple even called us last night to wish us Happy New Year!) And then - New Orleans. Leaving yesterday was bittersweet. A city I have never seen Jeff so happy in - his food, his music, his easy pace. A city full of character, history, great food, great music, and open genuine people. And I know we only scratched the surface! I sincerely hope we get to go back one day - I think New Orleans is going to become a good friend.
But you ask - you already wrote about the beignets, what about the gumbo? After all it's in the title!!!
Well..... been waiting on posting on that one. Jeff sampled a few at different establishments. Results VERY mixed. From the obviously pre-frozen bowls of slush, graduating to the nice, to finally finding the ONE!
So best Gumbo on this trip? At the Acme Oyster Bar with an Oyster shooter on the side! He cried. Need I say more!
Pictures on food tab including the last picture which I stole from the internet that sums up everything about everyone we met along the way!
And goodnight!
Wednesday, January 1, 2014
Revillon - I didn't know that was what my tastebuds are for!
Dec 30th part 3....... A food tradition in New Orleans for special occasions is to eat Revillon. Essentially a set course of 4 or more courses inspired by the season, the availability of fresh ingredients, and local traditional dishes. After getting all dress up for John Besh's "August" restaurant, it didn't take long to decide to go with his Revillon menu, as to try and guess just one or two dishes a-la-carte and get it wrong would have been disastrous! Three days in New Orleans is not enough to automatically know what you are eating and there were thing to try I hadn't ventured into yet. All I can say is...... I have eaten in many fine dining restaurants, some of which I loved, some which left me cold. The reason I like these restaurants once in a while, is to taste foods I would never have the opportunity to try or to experience and ingredient reinvented in a whole new application and then feel like Anthony Bourdain as I criticize and critique (like I know what I'm talking about! Ha!).
I have to say Chef Besh was the first to illicit two extremes of critique in me and why he is my favorite to date - he didn't play it safe. His gambles elicited genius in two dishes, great food in three and one that left me stone cold. I like gamblers!
One of his dishes was the most spectacular I have EVER eaten - the Turtle Soup. I could live on that for the rest of my life. The demi glace ran a close second. Unbelievably good.
The entree however, left me hmmm-ish. I'm still not sure what was in that crabcake looking thing and neither of us could tell whether the green part was collards or spinach.
Overall though I have to say to date he is my favorite over the other celebrity chefs which include Tom Colicchio, Joel Robuchon, Gordon Ramsey, Emeril. Mostly for staying true to the food groups of Louisiana, presenting them impeccably, and yes I'm saying it again - the best thing I have EVER tasted - the turtle soup.
Pictures posted on food page, plus on on the New Orleans page of our high class ride home to the hotel - on a bicycle! LOL
I have to say Chef Besh was the first to illicit two extremes of critique in me and why he is my favorite to date - he didn't play it safe. His gambles elicited genius in two dishes, great food in three and one that left me stone cold. I like gamblers!
One of his dishes was the most spectacular I have EVER eaten - the Turtle Soup. I could live on that for the rest of my life. The demi glace ran a close second. Unbelievably good.
The entree however, left me hmmm-ish. I'm still not sure what was in that crabcake looking thing and neither of us could tell whether the green part was collards or spinach.
Overall though I have to say to date he is my favorite over the other celebrity chefs which include Tom Colicchio, Joel Robuchon, Gordon Ramsey, Emeril. Mostly for staying true to the food groups of Louisiana, presenting them impeccably, and yes I'm saying it again - the best thing I have EVER tasted - the turtle soup.
Pictures posted on food page, plus on on the New Orleans page of our high class ride home to the hotel - on a bicycle! LOL
Bravo HBO's Treme
Dec 30th part 2.... It's so easy to get wrapped up in everything that is exciting in New Orleans. The music, the food, the architecture in the French Quarter and the kindness and spirit of the people who live there. But we knew quite well there was another side of New Orleans, the side depicted so well on HBO's Treme. The reality of rebuilding after Katrina and how some areas had a much slower comeback as less money was poured into the non tourist areas. After 8 years since Katrina many wards are still derelict, condemned and one must ask will they ever be rebuilt? Closer to the heart of the city is Treme. A suburb full of culture who has seen a mix of rebuild in parts, neglect in others. After our sumptuous breakfast at the Camilia Grill we decided to walk to Treme to see some of the things referred to in the show. The Iberville project, evacuated after Katrina and never re-opened. It actually never incurred any storm damage, but remains closed to this day, a whole culture of people gone. Right next door to Iberville is cemetery No.1, a place were so many funeral parades are shown on the show. It is also the resting place of Marie Laveau. (now here's where we flip shows over the American Horror Story - Coven). As us Coven junkies know, Marie Laveau is a force to be reckoned with, so it was a goal to see her grave. All cemeteries in New Orleans are above ground (seeing that New Orleans itself is 18 below sea level - that makes sense!) It is quite fascinating to walk amid these huge tombstones and marvel at how they still stand. In the middle of cemetery number 1 stands Laveau's tomb.
Legend has it she was a voodoo queen who cast spells and caused havoc in New Orleans. In truth, she was a hairdresser, and like all hairdressers knew everyone's secrets. Hence when a screaming wife came at her husband because Marie "saw" indiscretions it was because she also did the hair of the loose-tongued mistress. The husbands would yell "the voodoo witch!!" And so legend stuck. In fact she was very a devout Catholic who donated heavily to the City!
Anyway, many people make pilgrimages to her tomb every year. We were lucky enough to have perfect timing as when we arrived a lady from Connecticut was also arriving with her annual offering that she made at home. We asked her what the offering symbolized? She told us, her offering was to ask to return to New Orleans again, and that she had done it 8 times already and it had never failed. Walking among all of those tombstones, stopping at Iberville to reflect on those not able to return home even still, it was a sobering moment to remember.
New photos posted on Cemetery No.1 tab.
Yet all is not doom and gloom. The spirit of those who did return and the non-political private benefactors of the City have put millions into rebuilding and redeveloping. One such individual is one of New Orleans sons, Chef John Besh..... so it seemed fitting to be going there that night for supper......
Legend has it she was a voodoo queen who cast spells and caused havoc in New Orleans. In truth, she was a hairdresser, and like all hairdressers knew everyone's secrets. Hence when a screaming wife came at her husband because Marie "saw" indiscretions it was because she also did the hair of the loose-tongued mistress. The husbands would yell "the voodoo witch!!" And so legend stuck. In fact she was very a devout Catholic who donated heavily to the City!
Anyway, many people make pilgrimages to her tomb every year. We were lucky enough to have perfect timing as when we arrived a lady from Connecticut was also arriving with her annual offering that she made at home. We asked her what the offering symbolized? She told us, her offering was to ask to return to New Orleans again, and that she had done it 8 times already and it had never failed. Walking among all of those tombstones, stopping at Iberville to reflect on those not able to return home even still, it was a sobering moment to remember.
New photos posted on Cemetery No.1 tab.
Yet all is not doom and gloom. The spirit of those who did return and the non-political private benefactors of the City have put millions into rebuilding and redeveloping. One such individual is one of New Orleans sons, Chef John Besh..... so it seemed fitting to be going there that night for supper......
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